El Morabba3!

A few days ago, my friends and I went to a concert to see a band called El Morabba3. This concert was held in the Roman Amphitheater as part of a music festival that happens in Jordan every few years. The amphitheater provided a beautiful backdrop for the concert and the music was beautiful… it all felt very magical. It was also funny to recognize so many people at the concert– there were people from CLS, a few of our teachers, and other random people we have met in Amman. What I have learned is that the same group of people go to all the same events, so I have started to recognize the same people in the same cafes and other events. Small world!

All in all, it was a great night and I am now a new fan of El Morabba3.

Tawjihi, the mall, and H20

Not much time left in Jordan, so I’ve been really busy and haven’t really had a lot of time to write a lot of blog posts so I’m going to compress a few topics here.

Tawjihi

In the US, everyone freaks out about their SAT score in their college application, but alhamduhlillah, it is not the deciding factor in your application, for the college also looks at your essays, letters of recommendation, and grades in school. In Jordan, however, in the 12 grade, students take a test called Tawjihi. The score one gets on this test is the sole deciding factor for where one is placed in college in Jordan, so it is really really really important. My host sister has been studying nonstop for this exam: she goes to school to study for this as well as goes to a different school for extra practice and then spends even more time reviewing at home! The amount of time spent studying for this exam is starting to make me stressed for her!

Anyway, the results for this year’s Tawjihi came out at the start of this week, so during the night, people celebrate the results with fireworks, parties, and driving around in cars honking and playing loud music. It was funny to see this because in the US, people don’t really publicly celebrate getting into their college, so its nice to see the city coming alive in celebration.

The Mall 

Yesterday I went to Taj Mall to see how some of the malls are here. I felt like I was back in the US. All the stores were American or European (H&M, Starbucks, Victoria Secret…) and there was air-conditioning (finally!!!). Basically, it was a really nice mall and I immediately felt transported back to the US, so we didn’t stay too long, but it was interesting to see!

H20

In Jordan there is serious water shortage. This means that each house gets a ration of water each month, so if you run out of water, you can’t buy more water… your water ration is simply over. Of course, different neighborhoods have different amounts of water, so nicer neighborhoods have more water than others.

Regardless, in Jordan, one needs to be very aware of the water, so showers need to be reaaallly short and not every day. The benefit, therefore, of joining a gym was taking showers every day for more than a few minutes! I have to say that I am looking forward to this aspect in the US, of not being constantly worried that I am using up my family’s limited water supply!

Trip to Wadi Hidan

This past Saturday, I went on my last trip outside of Amman to Wadi Hidan, a wadi located near Madaba. A few of my friends and I from CLS went with a tour group, Jo Hiking. The cost for this hiking group included the transportation to and from the wadi, guides, photography, and lunch, so it was a pretty good deal.

We met at a hotel in Amman (there were other people who went on the trip too, so we totaled about 14 people) and then took a bus to Wadi Hidan, stopping along the way for a quick breakfast.

At about 10:30 we started our hike. Wadi Hidan is a hike that focuses on swimming, so for a lot of it, we were swimming in deep beautiful clear-green water, with tall rocky cliffs on either side of us. The wadi also had many areas where we had to jump off ledges into the water, slide down waterfalls, and climb down the sides of the slippery rocks using ropes– good thing we had guides with us to help us through it all!

The second half was the “harder” half, though personally I thought the first half was harder since it involved more heights. The second half was mainly climbing over rocks to make our way through the wadi. We ended by looking over a huge waterfall that let out over a gorgeous area of water surrounded by hanging trees. It truly looked like something from a fairytale. We couldn’t keep going because only professionals can climb down the waterfall, so we turned around and climbed the rocks to get out of the wadi and then started the long walk back to the bus by walking on the rocks that overlooked the wadi.

We got back to the bus at around 8 PM, thoroughly exhausted, and ate a quick dinner (that was supposed to be the lunch). The walk, though, was beautiful, and I loved the views the whole time. The only issue was that the guides said they were providing lunch, but they did not tell us that the lunch was given at the end of the hike once we got back to the hike, so no one ate a large breakfast and no one brought snacks or a large amount of water. The hike was supposed to end at about 3 pm, and we were all very hungry and thirsty by then (because they did not tell us to bring food for the hike), so when we got back at 8 without really eating all day and with limited water, we were quite exhausted and very dehydrated. Well besides the tour group’s not-amazing planning, it was a wonderful day and I got the visit the last wadi on my to-do list in Jordan. Though I am still partial to Wadi Hessa as my favorite wadi ever, Wadi Hidan was still quite beautiful.

Speaking of, from the wadis I have seen, here is my list of my rankings of the wadis I have visited in Jordan:

1. Wadi Hessa

2. Wadi Mujib

3. Wadi Rum

4. Wadi Hidan

Even though Wadi Hidan was last, it was still so amazing– it is basically a list of beyond perfectly beautiful to perfectly beautiful because all the wadis here have wow’d me so much.

Jerash and Ajlun

This past weekend we had our last CLS outing and spent the day on Friday in Jerash and Ajloon.

We first went to Jerash, which is one of the world’s largest and well preserved sites of Roman architecture. It is a magnificently huge site, with theaters, baths, main streets, and ruins of houses. The weather was insanely hot, so that made walking around exhausting, but the time there was well spent exploring the area. We missed this event because it happened at night, but that night was the first night of the annual Jerash festival, in which there are music shows, performances, and stores lining the streets of Jerash, with the main amphitheater hosting a large musical performance. Next time!

After lunch, our next stop was the Ajlun Castle, which is a 12th-century Muslim castle. It had amazing views of the surrounding area and was surprisingly cool inside for the thick stone keeps it well insulated.

Eid!

“Kul yom wa antee bikhayer” (a greeting about how you are well every year) was the first thing I heard from my host mother Friday morning as I walked into the living room. Music was playing in the living room and a lovely spread was set on the table.

I have celebrated Eid al-Adha in Oman, but was very excited to celebrate the other Eid, Eid al-Fitr (the 3-day celebration at the end of Ramadan) in Jordan.

In the morning, we sat around the living room, eating homemade delicious ma’amoul cookies (they are so amazing– soft cookies filled with dates) and drinking coffee. Then, everyone started getting ready (people buy new clothes for Eid) and my host family gave me a necklace as a present, a necklace that both my host sisters have; it was such a sweet and thoughtful gift!

IMG_4270At about 6, after lunch (lunch is heavy and eaten late in Jordan), we headed to Irbid, which is the city in which my host mother’s family lives (my host father’s family is all in Palestine).

The drive was only about an hour away, and on the way, we stopped at a cemetery, to briefly pay respects to my host father’s parents, who are buried there. My host mother explained that during Eid, one should do this, but the visit should be short and should not be filled with sadness, but with happiness for it is Eid.

We got to Irbid and went to my host mother’s parent’s house. Irbid reminded me a lot of Bahla in Oman, for there are more simple houses, scattered (as it is not a city as Amman is). We spent the evening sitting in the living room, socializing (reminded me again of Bahla and how the days were spent sitting in the living room, with the family talking and catching up). Women also kept their hair covered, unless the males in the room were brothers. The only biggest difference I found from Oman was that both males and females sat in the same room, though this may simply be because everyone there was family (though it seemed more appropriate for gender mixing). I also found the decorations in houses in Bahla to be more present (a bit generalizing, but this is simply from my experience), but this may reflect the wealth that is more present in the Gulf. Otherwise, I almost felt as though I was back in Bahla, for there were so many similarities.

We sat around in the living room and ate falafel sandwiches and drank tea. My host grandfather and some of the other men in the family smoked hookah (they had at least 2 hookahs in the house as it is a big part of Jordanian culture). Later, we finally went to bed. I shared a room with my host sisters and we slept on little pads on the floor. I also found it interesting as the toilet in the house was a Turkish toilet!

The next day was similar to Friday evening; we sat in the living room and hung out the whole day. We had lunch at 4:30 and it was delicious! It was interesting because my host mother’s brother cooked the whole meal (he apparently loves cooking) and unlike Oman, where the men would frequently be served first in another room, we all went to get food at the same time and sat all together. We also ate with individual plates and silverware, which was another difference from Oman, where we would sit on the ground and eat from a shared plate. The meal was delicious– probably one of the best meals I have eaten so far in Jordan (there is a photo of it below as well as a photo of one of the sitting rooms in the house).

After a pleasant evening drinking tea, we drove home and I immediately passed out in bed. I am so grateful for my host family to bring me to introduce me to their family. Everyone was so welcoming and kind and made me feel right at home. I also loved being able to experience Jordanian life outside Amman, and really was able to experience part of Jordanian’s culture that one would not experience without a host family. Truly a wonderful experience.

Arab Film Festival

Last week was the Arab Film Festival in Amman, so each day a different film was shown. Most of them were documentaries or films that addressed political issues in the Middle East that had been regionally recognized or won various awards. The event was free, so of course we went, especially since the setting was outside with a gorgeous view of the city and everything was in Arabic (great chance to practice!).

We went one of the nights to a film called “In the Sands of Babylon”, which was about the Gulf War. The film, in my opinion, was beautiful and the director cleverly captured a collective narrative of many Iraqi soldiers by weaving their stories through a narrative of a fictional character.

After the film, we heard from the director (he was present) and the audience had time to ask him questions or give their opinions on the film. Many in the audience praised him, but there were also many passionate people who criticized the film for various reasons (such as ignoring other parts of the war or not discussing the problems Iraq faces today). I found this so interesting, because in the US, there would be many people criticizing the movie, but the people here were so much more passionate, because the Gulf War has affected everyone in the region. Many people who spoke were from Iraq or had family from Iraq or knew people who had died in the war. The issue, then, became personal and people were speaking from personal experiences.

Overall, the whole experience was extremely moving and I was able to see another side of the Gulf War than what one sees in the US.

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Ramadan Experience

This past Monday and Tuesday, I decided to fast and celebrate Ramadan with my host family. I chose these specific days because Monday was Leylat al-Qadr, the most holy night of Ramadan in which it is believed that this was the night in which the first verses of the Qur’an were revealed to the prophet Muhammed. I wanted to do two days because I feel as though simply fasting one day does not allow one to fully experience fasting as a part of it is during Sahoor (the meal eaten before dawn), in which one wakes up to eat and drink a lot of water to prepare for the next day.

I began Monday morning at 3 am for Sahoor. We ate a typical Jordanian dish, which is watermelon with salted cheese and bread. After filling up and drinking lots of water, I went to sleep and then woke up for school.

When fasting, one cannot eat or drink anything until sunset, so when we had Iftar, I was so much more excited about it than I had been any other day. Drinking my first cup of water felt amazing and I could literally feel the water going down in my body (there’s a saying in Arabic about this).

That night was special for Leylat al-Qadr. After we ate, my host family invited me to the mosque with them, so we went from 9-10 for the prayer that happens every night. In the mosque, the women go through a separate entrance and pray on a level above where the men are praying. One can not see the other gender, but one can hear the Imam leading everyone in prayer. I followed my host family’s motions for the next hour and from what I understand (I was just following so I am not sure of the significance and meaning of the movements), it was a cycle of certain actions of different types of bowing.

We came back to the house and I slept for 2 hours and then at 1, we went back to the mosque for the special Leylat al-Qadr prayer. This prayer was from 1-4 am, and was similar to what we had previously done but a little bit different (again, not totally sure of the meaning of the different positions). By the time we were done, I was exhausted (some of the positions really hurt one’s legs!!!). It was a great experience to see everyone doing something in conjunction, as all the women were in lines and doing the same movements. In between different sections, there were quick breaks for people to get water.

At 4, the prayer ended, and we all sat on the ground with plastic sheets on the ground. We all ate sahoor together (small pastries provided by the mosque) and by 5, I was heading back home, exhausted.

School the next day was hard as I could not drink water or eat and I was so tired. After school, though, I came home and napped until Iftar.

Fasting was a really interesting experience and I am glad I got a glimpse of what it is like. I now have a lot more respect for all millions of Muslims around the world who fast every day during Ramadan. It is a hard thing to do, especially in such a hot climate! I found that the hardest part was not actually the lack of food, but that one cannot drink water. It is also hard to see other people eating food/drinking and to keep one’s mind from thinking about Iftar. The hardest part that comes from not eating and drinking is the tiredness, as I felt a bit foggy the whole day. I have a lot more respect for my teachers who have to teach while fasting every day! Though I am not sure that I’ll be fasting again, it was a great experience and though I can not at all claim to understand what it is like to fast a month, I am so grateful to my host family for sharing so much of their culture and religion with me.